Ok, this is the blogpost for Monday (day 15), Tuesday (day 16), and Wednesday (day 17).
7:45 PM.
I’ve been in Hinche since Monday and now I’m back home in Cange.
On Monday, the driver said the trip to Hinche was one hour long, and that he would pick me up at 1:30 PM.
In reality (real time, not Haitian time), the drive is about two hours long, and he picked me up at 5 PM. So, I got to Hinche at about 7 PM, met up with the ever-wonderful PIH-er Sarah Marsh, who continues to save my butt in every way possible. We walked a mile to the hospital, Hopital St. Therese, where I got a quick tour of the women’s and maternity wards. I also met 15 graduate surgical students from Emory Med School and their Master Surgeons, one of whose names was actually Master, so his nametag read “Master, Surgeon.” There was another funny nametag as well: “White, Medical Student.”
I also met the hospital’s director and head physician, a Cuban gentleman named Dr. Hensey, who is also a surgeon AND an OBGYN. My admiration for him is unceasing; he performs a difficult job with a seeming ease, and still has time to entertain blan photographers.
The staff at the hospital were all SO nice, and the atmosphere at Hinche is MUCH less political and constrained, even though St. Therese is still a PIH facility.
So, because it was late, I returned the next day, Tuesday (day 16). Sarah and I got up early (4 AM) to start our rounds and get me acquainted with the surgeons and midwives that I wanted to work with. Little did I know that Tuesday was to be one of the most exhausting, mortifying, beautiful, and rewarding days of my entire life, I exaggerate NOT. My first opportunity arose when an expecting first-time mother, a frail 18-year-old girl named Dwela, went very much into labor. I was thinking, “Yes, it’s only 6 AM, and we’re already in for a natural childbirth!” I…was wrong. The situation was this: Dwela had thought she was going into labor about two days earlier, and because she wasn’t sure how far along her pregnancy was, she thought the baby was coming early. She sought out a traditional in-home Haitian midwife, who gave her a packet of various special plants and leaves that were supposed to stop the early birth. To make these effective, Dwela had to pack these plants into her vagina. Yes, ladies and gents, leaves in the vagina. So, Dwela does this, and a massive allergic reaction ensues, causing extreme vulvar edema (swelling of the vulva). I don’t have any digital photos of this, but to try and relate the size of Dwela’s vulva at around 6 AM on Tuesday, if you were to cut a large grapefruit in half and hold it between your legs, her vulva (usually a miniscule thing) was that size. Dr. Hensey attempted to give her a one-finger vaginal exam, and this resulted in Sarah having to restrain her with all of her weight and might, and some of the most ear-piercing, blood-curdling screaming I’ve heard, even topping Hollywood horror flicks. Dwela’s water broke at around 7 AM, about the same time she started screaming “Mwen mouri, mwen mouri!” (I’m going to die!) and chanting funeral songs. Sarah, Dr. Hensey, and Thamy (head midwife) decided Dwela needed a C-section. So, C-section it was! Dr. Hensey rounded me up some scrubs and I got ready to hit the Operating Room with the team and deliver this baby.

(”clinical artist” Wyrick, getting suited up for the OR)

(Dr. Hensey and an Emory medical student performing Dwela’s C-section surgery)
The Cesarean section happened VERY quickly. Having never seen one done, I was shocked at the speed; it took all of 15 minutes from the time Dwela was under anesthesia until the baby was out and in a blanket, and then an additional 15 to get her sewn back up. The baby came out sort of ashen and took a little rubbing to get up to the normal physical baby speed of things, and was sort of tiny, but it all came out OK!

After the C-section, I was exhausted, and since I was going to stay up all night to wait on one of two potential natural childbirths, I decided to take a nap from 2 until 4 PM. When I came back to the hospital at 4 PM, one of the women had already given birth at 2 PM! So, resolved not to miss my last opportunity at this wonderful event, I literally camped out in the delivery room, refusing to leave even to pee. Finally at 6:30 PM, Madame Jirad Nismonfre, age 26, gave birth to her first child after an intense period of labor. By the time Jirad had fully dilated at 10 centimeters, blood and feces were flowing off of the rubber mat protecting the tiny table on which she lay, dropping into a mop bucket at the end of the table. It took about 15 minutes from her full dilation until the baby was completely out, and during this entire time, Jirad screamed only once or twice: as is common with Haitian women, she sang loud, sad songs and hymns during most of the birth. The birth was technically uncomplicated, but I stood in awe at the complexity of it, the pain and joy of it. I was simultaneously thinking, “When this is me, it will be one of the most amazing days of my life,” and “Oh my gods, I don’t think I can do that.” Jirad did it, and did it well, and without any pain medication. The baby would have been delivered in total darkness if I hadn’t requested a floodlight for my photographic work. The amazing vitality of Haitian women despite circumstances never ceases to amaze me. When I saw Jirad this morning, she was happy, smiling, and adoring her baby girl, as though (what I saw as) her very traumatic event had never occurred, rather that some serene event had happened last night and the baby had just appeared thereafter. Come to think of it, she was that serene from the second the baby came out. She smiled at me, still laying on the birthing table, dripping with afterbirth and blood. Amazing. PIH is doing good things.
So, that’s what happened in Hinche. Now, as the title of this post hints, there are other issues.
I am sick. Wow, sick. I’ve been having intense abdominal pains for some time now, and they continue to increase in frequency and intensity. At the moment, walking doesn’t happen, and unfortunately, pain meds aren’t popular in Haiti; I don’t like medicine anyway, but at this point, I would NOT refuse. Also, things aren’t working out so well gastro-intestinally speaking. I consulted some physicians on my symptoms, and they all seem to have the same idea: they think I have ovarian cysts, but aren’t sure - I left the US knowing that I might have them, but didn’t have time to get examined, and an examination isn’t happening here. So, at the advice of one doctor, I’m coming home early. I know!: don’t freak out, everything will be fine. I have an amazing set of photographs that will blow people away, I’m so positive of it, and I’m consoling myself with the thought that it’s doctor’s orders. In addition to the problem of cysts, there’s also a real possibility of a parasite, which grosses me out beyond belief, that I might have a worm in my intestines. Eeeeeeeeeeewwww! So, while I was actually looking forward to the rest of my time here, and even wanted to stay longer, alas, it is not to be. Sarah Marsh helped me make the call this evening: I’m coming home on Saturday. And I have a 10-hour layover in Miami (only one flight from there to Nashville each day, and late at night, no less), so I’m thinking I’ll spend half that time curled under a row of seats, wishing I had some rum to dull the sensations in my abdomen, and the other half huddled beside a toilet. (Sorry to be so graphic!)
So, that has been the past three days. (Today is Thursday.) My computer is seriously on the fritz, the graphics card must be blissing, or there’s a loose wire or something, so if I don’t blog until I get home, it’s because Sanatra (my computer) has gone to the great beyond until the Mac gods can fix him. If all works out, I’ll blog tomorrow and then Saturday once I get to Miami Airport, then that’ll cap off the travel blog! But don’t unsubscribe just yet! - digital scans of the Hasselblad photos and Polaroids will start going up in galleries on the site around July 16th, when I get settled back in Nashville and have gotten the film back from Chromatics.
Hope everyone is doing well!
And biggest CONGRATS to Pradip and Rachel on baby Kiran!
love,
jack
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